Berlin is enjoyable. I'm sure it wasn't always like that, but the overall impression is of a dynamic brand new city where certain freedoms are cherished and a way of life promoted. This is abundantly clear to the visitor, even if the visit is a short one.
The main reason for the city-wide building site is two-fold: wartime damage and post-unification development. I have no idea what pre-war Berlin looked like, but can imagine it was a proud city of tree-lined boulevards, open parkland and grand and wide streets upon which the merry Berliners would go about their lawful business, that is if that had one that survived the depression years. The Nazi takeover of the country and the war that followed, however, heralded a complete destruction of the city (courtesy of RAF and USAAF night and day bombings). Examples of this can still be seen in the keyed masonry repairs to grand historic buildings, the Bunderstag being a perfect example. Its shell is all that remained from the magnificent Reichstag building of 1894, but upon the outside are scars from bombing and conflict. Post-unification, the somewhat neglected communist eastern part of the city required wholescale upgrading. Thus, finally, the unified dream of nearly two generations has become a reality. What is of more importance, perhaps, is that Germans everywhere no longer need the complicit approval of watchful 'allied' powers to set their course.
Freedom, German-style, comprises the personal and public. Sure, within reason Berliners are free to think, worship, dress, eat and drink and have sex with nearly anyone/thing they want, but there is also a social vibe – a responsibility that has emerged from a very clouded history. Germans, and Berliners in particular, simply cannot let things get out of hand again. Thus, common energies are focused on health and welfare, on the public good in terms of arts and culture, on green energy and recycling, on quality of life and a general functional positivity in all things. Sometimes this works, as in (largely) free university education, and I'm sure the columns of Die Zeit, Die Welt and Frankfurter Allemagne Zeitung gleefully report on those areas wherein it fails, perhaps in terms of immigration policies, Turkish integration, etc.
The Berlin way of life, as far as any city has a 'life', is highly animated. Although undoubtedly an important factor, for daily enjoyment the zeitgeist does not appear to be quite as reliant on money as London or Hong Kong, for example. A large proportion of the population also appears to be young – there is something of a party feel to the place. Much like London, food and drink are everywhere and a quick jaunt around the market at Winterfeldtplatz was enough to certify that quality in this regard is everything.
Without doubt, a city like Berlin will continue to grow and develop in it's own way. It looked like there were more construction cranes at work here than in any other European city visited in the past few years. This development is not on a par with anywhere you may care to mention in East Asia, but it demonstrates that things here are still moving. And where there's movement, there's change – in this case, it feels overwhelmingly positive.
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